PRECIOUS METALS - A ROMANTICISED HISTORY
The legends of King Midas’ golden touch and Jason’s epic search for the Golden Fleece evoke mankind’s prehistoric fascination with precious metals. The proof of this lies in the treasures found in the tombs of early.
Precious metals are valued for their beauty and relative scarcity in the Earth’s crust, and their superior properties. They are very malleable, highly resistant to corrosion, superior reflectors of light and are unsurpassed as conductors of heat and electricity.
PRECIOUS METALS – AN INTRODUCTION TO GOLDS
There are several metals used in the creation of fine jewellery. Being informed about the most common precious metals used in fine jewellery and understanding their benefits you will be better informed about purchasing your pieces.
The most common metal used in jewellery, gold, comes in many colours and purities. Unlike diamonds, the term karat (kt., not to be confused with ct.) refers to the amount of pure gold content in the finished metal. It is generally considered that pure gold is too soft or too expensive to be used, so it tends to be mixed with other alloys. 24ct gold is often stamped 1000, being pure, and the proportions of gold alloy are measured and labelled as below. The higher gold content the higher the price; however, the lower the gold content, the stronger the metal.
Yellow and white gold are the most popular shades of gold used in jewellery-making. Red, pink, lime, or multicoloured gold content is still measured in the same manner. The colours are created with the use of certain metals in the alloy. For example, copper is used for pink gold, rhodium and palladium for white gold – the higher the content of yellow gold the stronger the colour.
THE ART OF THE GOLDSMITH
Goldsmithing is an art-form that dates back to ancient times and is found across many cultures. It can take decades of learning, practice, and dedication to become a master goldsmith. The master goldsmith will be knowledgeable in all types of gold or platinum alloys, possess an artistic eye, deftness of hand, and often times physical strength, to create beautiful pieces of finished jewellery. CLEARROCKS uses the best jewellers and setters available to turn your ideas into reality.
The two main methods to create a piece of jewellery are hand-fabrication and casting – jewellers will select their method depending on the design of the piece. If the design is simple and straightforward, the piece will often be cast from a pre-existing mould. This method is the most economical. More complicated custom designs may be created entirely by hand or use a combination of both cast elements and hand-fabrication. At CLEARROCKS, we believe in bringing you the best value, so as a part of your consultation, we will thoroughly discuss these different methods to decide upon which best suits your needs.
Other Metals
18K White Gold
18K White Gold is 750 parts pure gold, 250 parts silver and palladium, and is therefore stamped 750 or 18K. As this metal is almost always plated with rhodium to create a brighter white colour, it needs to be re-plated periodically.
Platinum
Platinum is often used in a near-pure form, is extremely strong, heavy, and long-lasting. It is also essentially the whitest metal used in jewellery. More rare than other metals, it is significantly more valuable and is approximately twice the price of gold. Platinum is the hardest of the precious metals and is often favoured because of its durability. Although it is ideal for diamond jewellery, it is not generally suited for sensitive or soft gems such as emeralds. When scratched, the metal is not removed but rather pushed aside which means that there is no metal loss and the setting does not wear down. This metal has a unique dull grey patina. Its most common alloy mixture is 950 parts pure platinum, 50 parts ruthenium, iridium, or palladium and is therefore stamped 950, PLAT, or PT. Platinum is resistant to corrosion and is hypo-allergenic.
SILVER
Silver although relatively scarce, it is the most plentiful and least expensive of the precious metals. As a soft, white, lustrous metal, it has the highest electrical conductivity of any element. Silver occurs naturally in its pure form and as an alloy with other metals and minerals. However, most silver is produced as a by-product or copper, gold, zinc, and lead refining. Jewellery and silverware are traditionally made from sterling silver (standard silver), an alloy of 92.5% silver with 7.5% copper. Sterling silver is harder than pure silver, and has a lower melting point than either pure silver or pure copper, which makes it ideal for jewellery. Sterling silver jewellery is often plated with a thin coat of fine silver (0.999) to give the piece a shiny finish. This process is called "flashing". Silver jewellery can also be plated with rhodium for a bright, shiny look, or with gold.
PALLADIUM
Palladium is a rare and lustrous silvery-white metal that was discovered in 1803. This metal has been used as an alternative to platinum or white gold due to its naturally white properties, giving it no need for rhodium plating. It is slightly whiter, much lighter and about 12% harder than platinum. Like platinum, it will develop a hazy patina over time however, unlike platinum it may discolor at high soldering temperatures, become brittle with repeated heating and cooling, and react with strong acids. This casting problem has been resolved, and its use in jewelry has increased because of a large spike in the price of platinum and a drop in the price of palladium.
TITANIUM
Titanium, sometimes called the “space age metal”, titanium has a low density and is a strong, lustrous, corrosion-resistant transition metal with a silver color. Titanium can be alloyed with iron, aluminum, and other elements, to produce strong lightweight alloys. The two most useful properties of the metal form are corrosion resistance, and the highest strength-to-weight ratio of any metal. In its unalloyed condition, titanium is as strong as some steels, but 45% lighter.
